Location: Ulukhaktok, NWT
N70° 40.259’ W117°46.208’
Date: May 19, 2006
Time: 9am
Temp: 2°C
State: Sad to get back on the plane to Inuvik. Hope to return to Ulukhaktok sometime in the future.

Tuesday morning Joanne came to pick us up out in Mashuyak by snow machine. Joanne is the daughter of Pat and Gene Ekpakohak who let us use their cabin. The entire ride back to town we dodged puddles as the ice had melted significantly in three days out on the land.

Back in Ulukhaktok we found accommodation with one of the local Royal Canadian Mounted Police. Sean Gordon and his wife Vanessa took us in, giving us floor space to lay our heads and heavy gear. I’m grateful as we’re traveling on a pretty tight budget and the local hotel, although great, is a little out of my price range at $180 per person, per night. BUT, this is cheap considering it costs a tremendous amount of money to ship the supplies needed to keep the place warm running smoothly. Heating alone, I’m told by the coop manager, costs $8000 a month.

Back in town we pulled out the digital video cameras. We shot some interviews with local Holman/Ulukhaktok print artists, sat in on an intimate family drum dance, and interviewed Pat Ekpakohak, who not only let us use his cabin, but is also regarded as one of the town’s great polar bear hunters. People are amazing!

Ulukhaktok Printmaking
Holman artists are known around the world for their printmaking. We spent some time talking with Margaret the woman running the local Holman Artists Co-operative. We learned Holman prints were originally made using seal skins or large pieces of stone, now, as times have changed, they tend to use mylar (the best choice) or clear plastic acetate (not as good). We also interviewed print artist Roberta Memogana. Roberta invited to her home where she showed us her prints while explaining the entire printmaking process and sharing stories of her inspiration. I would have really liked to buy more artwork supporting the local artists. -- The prints are breathtaking.

You can read more about Holman artists and see their work by clicking HERE

Drum Dance
As Forbes and I only arrived in town on Tuesday, we were unfortunate to have missed Jimmy and Lorna Memogana’s 60th anniversary and Jimmy’s birthday, which occurred Monday evening. There was a large feast and everyone was out for a drum dance. Sad to have missed it L But what’s this? While hanging out at the Arctic Char Inn we are told they would like to have another drum dance just for us. I’m sure they also really just enjoy the community get together.

Forbes and I head over at 7pm on Wednesday evening and are welcomed into a room full of elders, parents and youth, everyone talking and spending time together. We need more multigenerational gatherings like this in the world. Spaces for elders to pass on knowledge and wisdom, and places for children to grow within a secure family/community environment.

As I take out the cameras, the kids are after me like crazy, “Can I try?” “What’s that?” “Can I try?” they seem to have forgotten about the drum dancing. I decide, since I am a proponent of trusting the process, why not? I give them all my cameras, and with some mild guidance, let them go wild! Instantly the room is filled with miniature munchkin-sized videographers and filmmakers. I love it and am surprised by how steady they shoot and how keen they are on filmmaking. Who knows, maybe the future of Canadian cinema is right here? Maybe a future film workshop in Ulukhaktok? After all, it’s always best for people to tell their own stories in their own voice, and the people up here have lots to share!

Polar Bear Hunter
Before we head out of Ulukhaktok we stop in for a quick interview with polar bear hunter Pat Ekpakohak. Pat tells us he has killed around 70 polar bears in his life, he lost track of the actual number. His wife has killed 9 and his daughter has killed 1. Pat holds up some bear skulls for us and our cameras, “This one was nine feet tall, this one a bit bigger.” Many people in Ulukhaktok make good money off polar bear hunting since the people who come up to hunt need big money (a polar bear tag costs about $27,000 I’m told). David, a local guide and polar bear hunter, told us he recently received a $2500 tip from an American hunter. This was just the tip! Pat tells us of the few times he’s almost died out hunting, how he’s fallen through the ice twice and how he once ran himself over with a sled. The sled smashed him up badly and he had to be medivac’d out to Edmonton for surgery. “Once I got there, I had to wait for the new parts for my face. This cheekbone is all parts. I don’t know what they used, haha.” Pat is a warm and friendly individual and it would have been nice to spend more time with him, listening to stories or even out on the land.

Here are some pictures from the drum dance at Jimmy Memogana’s home. Mostly pics of the kids with cameras, check out Forbes' blog for pics of drummers and dancers!

(All pics taken with Forbes' digital point and shoot)