Sunday February 21, 2010
Location: Villa Corona, Mexico

Left Patzcauro early Friday morning after connecting with some nice people that may eventually lead to a few interviews. It was only a few hours before I arrived in Paracho, famous for it’s guitar makers and stores awash in musical instruments of every kind.

I wandered around Paracho feeling a bit lost before I finally decided there wasn’t much worth filming aside from some small image samples. However I couldn’t leave this famous town without first buying a guitar… a cheap guitar… for 400 pesos or 40 bucks. I gave my last guitar to a friend during a personal meltdown in Utah, so it’s nice to have music back in my life… or at least the tools to create music, since I’m still learning.

From Paracho I headed down to Angahuan which is famous for being next to what was once the town of San Juan. You see San Juan was one of the largest municipalities of Mexico back in the early 1900’s before the Paricutin Volcano erupted in 1943. The volcanic eruption first began as a massive earthquake, before the ground opened up in this farmer’s field and began to emit steam and ash.

Soon the lava started flowing, and continued over the next nine years eventually covering the entire town. Everything was destroyed with the exception of the massive church that had been a central monument and center for prayer of a town that Raymundo estimates was around three thousand people. Although the lava knocked down many of the walls and covered much of the building, the steeple remained intact and to this day stands in memory of the community that was once there.

Pulling into Angahuan there are several guys offering horseback rides up to see the volcano and remaining church. I think it’s important to hire these guys and toss them a few pesos for the local economy. There was one older gentleman who approached my van with cane and sombrero and offered me his services. I asked him if he had a horse and he laughed and said no, he walks giving the tour on foot. He then went on to explain that he is eighty-two years old and was fifteen years old when the actual eruption occurred.

This was my man. I haggled with him over the price for a bit and then invited him into my van. As he climbed aboard I could see that his old knees were clearly in pain. The forty minute hike was going to be interesting.

Much to my surprise Raymundo was quick on his feet, hobbling along in front of me knocking rocks away with his cane and moving swiftly. As we walked he explained (all in Spanish) the morning of the first earthquake, and how the ground opened up. He told me how although no one died it was very sad that the volcano erupted because for years there was no food for people or animals due to a lack of crops caused by the thick layer of ash that had fallen.

Raymundo took me up through the field of volcanic lava and along the way showed me the remnants of houses embedded deep in the lava. If it weren't for him I' wouldn't have even noticed these stone walls amidst the volcanic rock. It's incredible to consider the power of nature and it's ability to reshape our world.

On the way back from the guided tour I asked Raymundo if he was willing to sit for an on-camera dialog the following day. He smiled and replied that it would be his pleasure since very few people care about history anymore. He told me people come and visit the site take pictures and leave, without ever having a true sense of what happened.

I slept in the parking lot of the tourist facilities for 50 pesos, and fiddled with my new guitar. The following day Raymundo and I met up for our talk and he explained the whole event from beginning to end. How the earth shook and opened up, the sadness, how many people considered it a miracle, but how he saw it only as an act of nature. He was a bit shy to be on camera but was wonderful overall since his deep aged voice resonated well into the lavalier microphone I rigged him with.

I hiked back to the site after our talk to capture a timelapse on HD and met with a young guy selling necklaces, he motioned me to the obsidian, and seeing the chain I couldn't help but toss him a few pesos for it. I talked with him and his girlfriend for awhile, but with the language barrier we didn't get too far. As I left he told me we could speak without words since we were on the same energy level where we could speak from the heart... as least that's what I think he said ;-)

I left town feeling good like although I had been lost and having a hard time a few days earlier here I was found again... but I knew it wouldn't be long before I was directionless once more. So it goes I guess, so is my process of letting go and handing things over to a higher power. Faith isn't easy... especially when the universe doesn't always agree with us.

Pulling out of town I met up with Raymundo again, who took my hand in his and gave me blessings for my journey and my family. Something happened between us in those few days, I felt a kinship with him, and he looked at me like a grandfather would a grandson. It was strange considering my own grandfathers death that was close at hand... it may sound wonky but there was something comforting in his gaze, as though he was a messenger telling me not to worry, he was going to take care of me.

peace,d